Who doesn't need a Halloween frock!

 Just a quick catch up post.  

I have a bunch of printed cottons from Joanns' to make some Gertie frocks so I thought I make one up for Girls Night Out at Savage Mill.  The theme was Cabinet of Curiousity with a Halloween theme and I had the perfect print for that --shown below with the black cat head buttons and tarot card earrings.

I decided to do the Scout dress from Gertie.  I had just under 4 yards of fabric and to do the nice full skirt that the pattern has, it requires almost 6 yards of fabric.  I figured I'd just cut two lengths of fabric, seam them together center back and call it a day.  I'd done this before with a gathered skirt but I decided to pleat this one.

This pattern has a short puffy sleeve which isn't very flattering on me but a 3/4 length sleeve pattern was released later which I really like so I went with that.

Here's the finished frock on my dress form:

And of course some fun pics of me in the dress.  I love this pattern but would've really liked the skirt to be much fuller since the crinoline pretty much fills it out with no room to spare.  

I love this dress--as I tend to love all of Gertie's patterns.  I'd love it even more had I had enough fabric to make the fuller skirt but this works well enough for something so seasonal.  I have a few more prints for this pattern that I need to get to at some point.

Tiny Tabitha gets dressed!

I've gotten behind!  This project was completed in August!

We last left Tiny Tabitha as pictured below with her stays and shift.  Since her job is to be a model for a mantua making demo, she obviously needed a gown!  Here's a pic from the last post for reference.  Jordie is pictured with her for scale.

To finish her underpinnings, we added hip pads

And an underpetticoat 

Next up --I had to drape an English gown.  I draped the back and front using pattern tracing cloth and stitched the pieces together to fit.

After a couple of small tweaks, I set about constructing the gown like I would a gown for myself.

First fitting

Setting the length of the shoulder straps

The petticoat was easy!

Finished gown front.  Sleeves are a little snug so I'll adjust the pattern accordingly.

Finished gown back.

Tabitha makes a cooperative model while being draped for a mantua making demo.

(photo by Lynn Bassett)

Part of the demo was a demo of how an earlier gown would be refashioned into a center front closing gown.  This was much easier for participants to understand having seen the entire process of draping a gown from start to finish.  My original intent was to rip out half the gown but I couldn't bring myself to do that so I made another bodice front and pined it at the side seam.  The extra bodice had the dart and robing ripped out so I could chalk a new neckline and explain how a shoulder strap would be made along with other alterations that would be made.

(photo by Lynne Bassett)

I'm really glad I made this project.  I do a lot of demos and this has proven to be an efficient method for doing so in a museum setting.  The print gown that I was draping had each step completed in advance.  I showed how to drape the lining, then had the completed pieces ready for the next step.  They were able to see the process and the order of construction all the way through.  I will also use Tiny Tabitha to make some patterns for myself.  She is almost exactly 1/2 my measurements so sizing up after making a pattern for her will be pretty easy.

Who would've thought a half size mannequin would end up being so handy!

Introducing Tiny Tabitha!

 Let me introduce you to Tiny Tabitha!  I've never been one to name my dress forms but I decided she needed an identity.  She's a half size form.  I found the pattern for her in an article on Scribd.  If you do not have a subscription to Scribd, the creator does have a downloadable pattern available on Etsy.  The pattern included 1/4, 1/3 and 1/2 scale versions.  I went with the half size scale.  Since I planned on using her with teaching demos, I chose to make her out of plain osnaburg linen.  I also decided to change the base a bit, choosing to use a wood plaque in lieu of the weighted cardboard base shown in the pattern.  She was a bit fiddly to sew but the process was interesting.  Here is the finished product:

I discovered that the pattern creator also had a pattern for arms on her Etsy site so I added them and painted the base:

Next up:  Under pinnings.  

I ordered the half sized shift and under petticoat pattern from B&T.  I modified the sleeves and a few other details on the shift as I wanted the shift to have sleeve buttons and an open cuff.

Note the laundry mark!

I didn't have any buttons small enough to use so I cut off the legs from some paper brads and curved them into button shanks.  The size was just right!

Here she is in her shift (Jordie for scale):

Next up--stays!  I wanted strapless fully boned stays.  There's a lovely line drawing on the JP Ryan stays pattern which my stays are made from so I used that line drawing and sized the width of the stays laying flat to the measurement I computed would fit Tiny Tabitha.  I then cut a fitting muslin from heavy interfacing, all in one piece with no seams.

I found this mock up to be fairly close though it was clearly too short.  I made the adjustments then cut it out of pink worsted and linen canvas, sewing the boning channels by hand.  I also added 1/8 inch tape to where the seamlines would be to give the illusion that the stays were made in sections.  Here they are before the boning channels are finished.

After boning them, the top was bound with white lambskin.  The tabs were split and the bottom portion of the stays were lined with the same lambskin, stitched right sides together with the fashion fabric which was much less tedious then attempting to bind the tabs.  A pink and white checked linen lining was added last.

Now to work on getting her dressed!

This has been an enjoyable project so far and she will come in handy for mantua making demonstrations.  The best thing is that I can make a garment for her using remnants from my own gowns!  I'll post her wardrobe as it develops.

Farewell LaFayette!

 The terrific tour of the Marquis de LaFayette in 1824-25 is coming to a close.  We had an all day event on Tuesday July 29 in 100+ degree heat.  Since the heat was more or less expected, I decided to make a new summery frock.  I was unable to finish it in time due to unforeseen circumstances but I did end up finishing it a couple of days later so I will still be able to wear it for the last month of LaFayette's visit.  

I basically constructed this 1825 gown the same way as I did the print gown in this post but with short sleeves.  Because time was of the essense, I did not piece the horizontal trim on the skirt.  I simply made a long strip, applied the piping then hand stitched it over the skirt.  I'm not sure how I feel about the way it looks but it works.  I also chose to place the front bodice somewhat on the bias to take advantage of the stripes.  I cut it at a 60 degree angle.  Thank God for quilting rulers. The front is underlined with linen cut on grain.

As done with my other 1920s gowns, I used a lot of piping!  The back closure isn't complete as I'm still trying to decide between using dorset wheel buttons or ties.  These back closing bodices are the one thing I dislike about this era.

Here is the completed gown:

Obviously I needed an airy summer bonnet so I ordered the largest sisal hat body from Judith M millinery supply.  I like 1820s bonnets as many of them are shaped more like hats.  I have various things around the house that I use to block hat/bonnet crowns.  In this case I used an extra large coffee can.    For the brim, I used the Timely Tresses Sophia bonnet pattern and cut the brim out of pasteboard.  After soaking toe form in water I put it on the can and worked it around the brim form folding under a hem on the brim.  Once dry, the bonnet was somewhat stiff.  I used my machine to zigzag stitch millinery wire to the edge of the brim and trimmed the hem of the straw to about 1/4 inch.  Most of my supplies were from my stash.  I had white satin double folded bias tape that I used on the brim edge and the 4 inch wide moiré ribbon was left over from the blue silk bonnet I made last fall.  Before trimming, I gave it a good saturating spray with gelatin sizing and steamed it well.  Vintage millinery flowers completed the look.  

Bonnet next to blocking forms

Here is the bonnet as worn:

I was really bummed at first that I couldn't get the new gown done in time for this event but I think I was better off with the long sleeves in that hot sun.  I will update with more pics when I wear the gown.  

This basic design has served me well.  I've been able to get 5 completely different gowns out of the same basic pattern block.  Gotta love that!

Edit to add--Pics of new gown worn to greet the Pride of Baltimore!

Fast Forward 200 years: 1970s short caftan

The one Patreon I subscribe to is Gertie's Charm Patterns patreon.  She has an annual theme and you receive a monthly free pattern only available to members along with other goodies.  This year's theme is old Hollywood glamour.  The May pattern was inspired by Elizabeth Taylor, known for wearing long flowing caftans in her later years.

I had never given much thought to making a caftan but the photos of the new pattern were intriguing so I though I'd start with a short version.

I was delighted to find a Liberty of London Tana Lawn print that was a reprint from a 1969 print.

I didn't take any construction pics but it's pretty clear cut.  The front has the fitted bodice inset.  Inside there is a wide elastic belt that hooks in the back with bra hooks that pulls the front belt fitted to the body.

Here's the finished caftan:

And pics of me in it!

I have to say--this is the most comfortable thing I've worn on my body in years!  The lawn is so incredibly cool and it feels glorious against my skin.  As such, I found a flowy rayon tropical print with flamingos to make a long version.  Yes--I've become THAT old lady. LOL